Excuse me? I'm sure I've just misheard the lady at the front desk. It's standard after all for places in Russia to lose their hot water for about a month in the summer. Why is not clear, but people are used to not asking why so it continues. The woman repeats - we have no cold water.
Trying to flush the toilets - no water. At a bar trying to wash my hands - no cold water. Even trying to eat pelmeni, a boiled dumpling served in broth, I'm told that unfortunately they have no broth because, you guessed it, no cold water. Yeah I know, broth is made from hot water, but remember what I said about asking questions? The most information I could glean was that the whole city would be like this until monday. Maybe the city just forgot there were more than 28 days in July.
The evening news did provide some clarity - the city's cold water pipes are being repaired. Whether this is planned or unplanned we'll never know, my Russian is not that good.
And so I will always remember thee Krasnoyarsk, city bez kholodnoi vodi. Oh and the hike we did in Stolby National Park was pretty nifty too. But you'll just have to wait for pictures to know more about that.
On to Baikal!
Sunday, July 29, 2007
Friday, July 27, 2007
"Yeah? Well, At Least We Won The Cold War..."
Val and I just lost a game of cards to our new Russian friends, Vlad, Pasha, and Misha, and as they gloat over beating the Americans at their own game this is the one thing I can think to say. Fortunately, they find it funny. "You realize you're on a train in the middle of Russia?" Also fortunately, no one else heard.
The train was hilarious. Val and I just spent 70 hours in a train car with 54 other people, dorm style, with feet sticking out in the aisle, tiny cubbies for beds, and body odor that exceeded all my wildest expectations. All Russians too, wondering why on earth some Americans would want to come take this slow moving train and call it a "vacation." But in the end, I got some good practice for my Russian, and we made it safely to Krasnoyarsk with some new friends and some hilarious photos.
As for Krasnoyarsk, you say? That remains to be seen. The good thing about Krasnoyarsk so far is that it has internet. The bad thing about Krasnoyarsk so far is that our hotel charges $1.50 for a shower. Don't worry, the toilets are free. I asked. We have about three days here to explore, then on to Irkutsk. I'm very excited to see Lake Baikal, I hear the water is only mildly freezing this time of year.
We're officially in Siberia. How now, brown cow?
The train was hilarious. Val and I just spent 70 hours in a train car with 54 other people, dorm style, with feet sticking out in the aisle, tiny cubbies for beds, and body odor that exceeded all my wildest expectations. All Russians too, wondering why on earth some Americans would want to come take this slow moving train and call it a "vacation." But in the end, I got some good practice for my Russian, and we made it safely to Krasnoyarsk with some new friends and some hilarious photos.
As for Krasnoyarsk, you say? That remains to be seen. The good thing about Krasnoyarsk so far is that it has internet. The bad thing about Krasnoyarsk so far is that our hotel charges $1.50 for a shower. Don't worry, the toilets are free. I asked. We have about three days here to explore, then on to Irkutsk. I'm very excited to see Lake Baikal, I hear the water is only mildly freezing this time of year.
We're officially in Siberia. How now, brown cow?
Monday, July 23, 2007
The River of Dreams
One last post before taking a three day train to Krasnoyarsk. And don't worry, it's a good one.
"Frances, two years ago I saw you and Valerie coming to this river. I didn't know what you would look like, but seeing you now I know."
So spoke Lyuda, girlfriend of Pavel, friend of Alex, celebrating her birthday on the banks of the Oka river outside of Chekhov, outside of Moscow. We had been there all afternoon swimming, eating potatoes, and attempting to decline the vodka everyone was insisting we try.
"I have a gift. I know you don't believe me, but I can see the future."
You can imagine how interested I was, both in what she had to say and in how much of that Vodka she had to drink already.
"I am extremely worried about Valerie. She should not be dancing with that guy. I see bad things happening."
Half an hour later, after much serious discussion in Russian about how to make sure Valerie stayed safe, we agreed that I should go speak with her. Valerie promised to stop dancing, and Lyuda was almost in tears she was so happy.
"Frances, I didn't want to say it earlier, but I saw death. Promise me you won't go swimming."
We had been in the river once earlier duing the day, and there had been much talk about how much fun night swimming was. Needless to say, we didn't do it. Besides, it was far more comfortable staying at Alex's in a bed than on the banks of the river of death in the back of a van.
Only now I can't say I stayed in a van down by the river. These are the sacrifices a traveler must make.
To Krasnoyarsk and beyond!
"Frances, two years ago I saw you and Valerie coming to this river. I didn't know what you would look like, but seeing you now I know."
So spoke Lyuda, girlfriend of Pavel, friend of Alex, celebrating her birthday on the banks of the Oka river outside of Chekhov, outside of Moscow. We had been there all afternoon swimming, eating potatoes, and attempting to decline the vodka everyone was insisting we try.
"I have a gift. I know you don't believe me, but I can see the future."
You can imagine how interested I was, both in what she had to say and in how much of that Vodka she had to drink already.
"I am extremely worried about Valerie. She should not be dancing with that guy. I see bad things happening."
Half an hour later, after much serious discussion in Russian about how to make sure Valerie stayed safe, we agreed that I should go speak with her. Valerie promised to stop dancing, and Lyuda was almost in tears she was so happy.
"Frances, I didn't want to say it earlier, but I saw death. Promise me you won't go swimming."
We had been in the river once earlier duing the day, and there had been much talk about how much fun night swimming was. Needless to say, we didn't do it. Besides, it was far more comfortable staying at Alex's in a bed than on the banks of the river of death in the back of a van.
Only now I can't say I stayed in a van down by the river. These are the sacrifices a traveler must make.
To Krasnoyarsk and beyond!
Friday, July 20, 2007
Liar, Liar, Pants on Fire
Nope, I'm not on a train to Sverdlovsk. I'm not even going to Sverdlovsk anymore. Apparently, the only tickets out of Sverdlovsk were on August 3rd. Which would mean taking either a bus or flying to get out of there on a more reasonable date. Yeah not happening.
So now, we have tickets to Krasnoyarsk for tuesday. Which is great because it means a few more days in Moscow. It also means a three day solid train ride, but at least if there are no trains out of Krasnoyarsk the bus ride to Irkutsk is much more reasonable. As in 24 hours instead of 56. Should at least be interesting, right?
The good news is Valerie and I found each other without much difficulty, largely thanks to the cell phone my friend Alex lent me. And thanks to my friend Micha, we've been able to stay hostel-free in Moscow thus far. Friends are amazing.
So now, we have tickets to Krasnoyarsk for tuesday. Which is great because it means a few more days in Moscow. It also means a three day solid train ride, but at least if there are no trains out of Krasnoyarsk the bus ride to Irkutsk is much more reasonable. As in 24 hours instead of 56. Should at least be interesting, right?
The good news is Valerie and I found each other without much difficulty, largely thanks to the cell phone my friend Alex lent me. And thanks to my friend Micha, we've been able to stay hostel-free in Moscow thus far. Friends are amazing.
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Some fun encounters
In no particular order...
1) Customs, as I'm leaving the airport: (in English)
Angry guard: Where?
Me: Where what?
Guard: Where coming from?
Me: America.
Guard: Ticket!
Me, confused because I'm leaving the airport not trying to board a plane: Boarding pass?
Guard: Ticket!
I had him my boarding pass, which is from my connecting flight through Tallin.
Guard, starting to get angrier: From Tallin, not America.
Me: I travelled through Tallin. I actually travelled through Dublin too, here's that boarding pass. And I can find...
Interrupting Guard: You said America!
Me: Ok fine I came from Tallin.
Guard: Proceed.
2) Directions (in Russian)
Russian Woman: Excuse me, where's the metro?
Me: Smolenskaya? (the metro closest to where we were)
Her: Lyuboye.
Me: Oh I'm sorry I don't know where that is.
Frances continues wandering, leaves woman standing confused. Shortly realizes Lyuboye means any. Any metro. Nice work.
3) Macdonalds
Me: Ya khochoo molochni koktail (I want a milk shake).
Cashier: Kakoy (what kind)?
Me: Crap I forgot how to say strawberry.
Me: Krasnaya frukta (red fruit)
Her: Krasnaya frukta?
Me: Ya zabila kak skazat pa rooskiy. Eta krasnaya frukta. (I forgot how to say it in russian, it's a red fruit).
Her: Kloobnika? (strawberry?)
Me: DA!
4) Pushkinskaya Square, mid-way through a conversation with a girl that sat down next to me (in russian).
Girl: Are you sad?
Me: Sad? No I'm just tired. Are you sad?
Girl: No. I'm just drunk.
She then invited me to see Transformers with her, which i politely declined. She seemed bummed--not that I wasn't going to join her, but because I said I'd heard it wasn't very good. It's her favorite movie of course, and this was the third time she was going to see it. That's right, third.
5) Visa registration office (in english):
Me: I'd like to register my visa.
Woman: You don't need to register it, it's very expensive.
Me: I know, but won't that look strange if I leave the country after three weeks and never registered?
Her: Just don't get stopped by the police.
Important background: you're supposed to register your visa if you're in a city for more than three days. Since I'll be on the train for most of the trip and not really in any one city for more than three days I wanted to at least have the Moscow registration. It wouldn't be valid in other cities but would be helpful if stopped by the police. For those of you not familiar with Russia, this happens a lot. They hang out by the metro and in the squares randomly asking people for their papers as proof of legality. Not a big deal, but you usually have to pay them some money to avoid a huge waste of time or if you aren't there legally. Only happened to me once when I was here before, I tend to not get asked when I've got my glare down right.
And many, many more.
1) Customs, as I'm leaving the airport: (in English)
Angry guard: Where?
Me: Where what?
Guard: Where coming from?
Me: America.
Guard: Ticket!
Me, confused because I'm leaving the airport not trying to board a plane: Boarding pass?
Guard: Ticket!
I had him my boarding pass, which is from my connecting flight through Tallin.
Guard, starting to get angrier: From Tallin, not America.
Me: I travelled through Tallin. I actually travelled through Dublin too, here's that boarding pass. And I can find...
Interrupting Guard: You said America!
Me: Ok fine I came from Tallin.
Guard: Proceed.
2) Directions (in Russian)
Russian Woman: Excuse me, where's the metro?
Me: Smolenskaya? (the metro closest to where we were)
Her: Lyuboye.
Me: Oh I'm sorry I don't know where that is.
Frances continues wandering, leaves woman standing confused. Shortly realizes Lyuboye means any. Any metro. Nice work.
3) Macdonalds
Me: Ya khochoo molochni koktail (I want a milk shake).
Cashier: Kakoy (what kind)?
Me: Crap I forgot how to say strawberry.
Me: Krasnaya frukta (red fruit)
Her: Krasnaya frukta?
Me: Ya zabila kak skazat pa rooskiy. Eta krasnaya frukta. (I forgot how to say it in russian, it's a red fruit).
Her: Kloobnika? (strawberry?)
Me: DA!
4) Pushkinskaya Square, mid-way through a conversation with a girl that sat down next to me (in russian).
Girl: Are you sad?
Me: Sad? No I'm just tired. Are you sad?
Girl: No. I'm just drunk.
She then invited me to see Transformers with her, which i politely declined. She seemed bummed--not that I wasn't going to join her, but because I said I'd heard it wasn't very good. It's her favorite movie of course, and this was the third time she was going to see it. That's right, third.
5) Visa registration office (in english):
Me: I'd like to register my visa.
Woman: You don't need to register it, it's very expensive.
Me: I know, but won't that look strange if I leave the country after three weeks and never registered?
Her: Just don't get stopped by the police.
Important background: you're supposed to register your visa if you're in a city for more than three days. Since I'll be on the train for most of the trip and not really in any one city for more than three days I wanted to at least have the Moscow registration. It wouldn't be valid in other cities but would be helpful if stopped by the police. For those of you not familiar with Russia, this happens a lot. They hang out by the metro and in the squares randomly asking people for their papers as proof of legality. Not a big deal, but you usually have to pay them some money to avoid a huge waste of time or if you aren't there legally. Only happened to me once when I was here before, I tend to not get asked when I've got my glare down right.
And many, many more.
Dom, Sweet Dom
Oh Moscow how I missed thee. Some things will never change. As soon as you leave the airport, at least a dozen men approach asking if you want a taxi then follow you when you say no. I hear the trip from the airport to the city in London costs 20 pounds, roughly 40 dollars. The trip in Moscow is 20 roubles, roughly 75 cents. I hate my giant backpack which betrays my status as a tourist. I want to pick up right where I left off but my rusty Russian says otherwise, and my finely tuned metro skills have somehow vanished in the three years (to the month) I've been gone. One note on the metro--you have never ridden an escalator until you've ridden the ones in the Moscow metro. They move at lightning speed and are sometimes so deep you can barely see the end when you start.
The hostel I stayed at my first night was on Stariy Arbat, right by my old stomping grounds. I start to remember, not just the dance of the metro, but my Russian. I can ask for directions, buy train tickets, and help translate at the hostel for the tourist with no Russian skills and poor English. I ditch the backpack and even remember how to glare at strangers so they think I'm a local.
It's a hard city, and a fast city, but I remember why it's my city. It can be incredibly cruel to strangers, but more generous than any other to friends. I met up with my good friend Alex, a Russian I met while studying here in fall 2003, who I've since seen only a few times while he was on business trips to San Francisco. He offered to let me stay at his place in Chekhov, a quiet town just outside the city. His mother, whom I had never met, waited up for us and provided a full meal, a hot shower, and a comfortable bed in a room that didn't have 8 other people coming in and out at all hours of the morning. The hospitality they bestowed on me was enormous, not to mention the home-cooked food which was ochen fkoosna (very delicious).
Today, my travel buddy Valerie gets in to Moscow. With any luck we will find each other between the tracks of a metro station, and depart for Sverdlovsk on Friday. We only have tickets to Sverdlovsk because the woman at the train station was either too impatient to sell me more, thought they were too expensive, or didn't have tickets to Tomsk. I'm not entirely sure. Well, I am sure, and it's all three of the above.
Sverdlovsk, at least I hope, is the alternate name for Yekaterinaburg, the city just past the Urals where the last Tsar and his family were killed. At the very worst, we'll be spending a lot of time there. At best, we'll leave the next day for Tomsk.
Lots of train ahead, probably not a lot of internet. Ostarozhna, dveri zakrivayootsya. Sledooshi stantsi, Sverdlovsk.
The hostel I stayed at my first night was on Stariy Arbat, right by my old stomping grounds. I start to remember, not just the dance of the metro, but my Russian. I can ask for directions, buy train tickets, and help translate at the hostel for the tourist with no Russian skills and poor English. I ditch the backpack and even remember how to glare at strangers so they think I'm a local.
It's a hard city, and a fast city, but I remember why it's my city. It can be incredibly cruel to strangers, but more generous than any other to friends. I met up with my good friend Alex, a Russian I met while studying here in fall 2003, who I've since seen only a few times while he was on business trips to San Francisco. He offered to let me stay at his place in Chekhov, a quiet town just outside the city. His mother, whom I had never met, waited up for us and provided a full meal, a hot shower, and a comfortable bed in a room that didn't have 8 other people coming in and out at all hours of the morning. The hospitality they bestowed on me was enormous, not to mention the home-cooked food which was ochen fkoosna (very delicious).
Today, my travel buddy Valerie gets in to Moscow. With any luck we will find each other between the tracks of a metro station, and depart for Sverdlovsk on Friday. We only have tickets to Sverdlovsk because the woman at the train station was either too impatient to sell me more, thought they were too expensive, or didn't have tickets to Tomsk. I'm not entirely sure. Well, I am sure, and it's all three of the above.
Sverdlovsk, at least I hope, is the alternate name for Yekaterinaburg, the city just past the Urals where the last Tsar and his family were killed. At the very worst, we'll be spending a lot of time there. At best, we'll leave the next day for Tomsk.
Lots of train ahead, probably not a lot of internet. Ostarozhna, dveri zakrivayootsya. Sledooshi stantsi, Sverdlovsk.
Saturday, July 14, 2007
Dublin
Probably won't get a chance to post again tomorrow before I take off for Moscow, so here it is. Dublin is rainy. Really rainy. And I shouldn't say that, since today has been just lovely. But yesterday--just walking from the bus stop to the metro (or the Luas as they call it, pronounced like my last name) fully drenched me.
The city has otherwise been very enjoyable to explore. It's what you expect, areas with cobblestone streets, cute shops, and lots of English spoken in ways you can't understand unless you listen carefully. It's really a bizarre feeling not being able to comprehend someone speaking your own language. We took a tour of the Dublin castle yesterday as well as saw the Book of Kells at Trinity College. Will has been an excellent tour guide showing me, Jonathan, and Paul the city and its highlights. Tomorrow we're apparently going to touch mummies. I'll let you know how that goes.
But the real treat was the hike we did today at the fishing town of Howth. Exactly like I had hoped, there were cliffs jutting out right above the sea, green rolling hills, a cloud-spotted sky and even a lighthouse hovering over the water. We lucked out and didn't have much rain for most of the day. At the end, we stopped by a fish shop to pick up some trout for dinner and watched some seals play in the harbor. Yes, Pauline, I have pictures. Simply lovely.
Now it's time to go out on the town. Hope it doesn't rain!
The city has otherwise been very enjoyable to explore. It's what you expect, areas with cobblestone streets, cute shops, and lots of English spoken in ways you can't understand unless you listen carefully. It's really a bizarre feeling not being able to comprehend someone speaking your own language. We took a tour of the Dublin castle yesterday as well as saw the Book of Kells at Trinity College. Will has been an excellent tour guide showing me, Jonathan, and Paul the city and its highlights. Tomorrow we're apparently going to touch mummies. I'll let you know how that goes.
But the real treat was the hike we did today at the fishing town of Howth. Exactly like I had hoped, there were cliffs jutting out right above the sea, green rolling hills, a cloud-spotted sky and even a lighthouse hovering over the water. We lucked out and didn't have much rain for most of the day. At the end, we stopped by a fish shop to pick up some trout for dinner and watched some seals play in the harbor. Yes, Pauline, I have pictures. Simply lovely.
Now it's time to go out on the town. Hope it doesn't rain!
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Last Post in America!
At least, for a month. Pauline and I made the drive to Michigan
through giant thunder storms and Chicago traffic. Good thing the wind
shield wiper blades broke after we escaped the big bad clouds. Barely.
Still, I enjoyed seeing this type of weather in the middle of the
summer. It has been six years after all.
Today has been spent getting ready for my big adventure. Packing for a
month long trip abroad is tricky. You want to be prepared for all
sorts of weather but you also want to bring as little as possible
since it will be travelling on your back the entire time. We'll see
how I do.
I'll try to post from Dublin if I get the chance. Otherwise, see you
in Moscow. Ok kids, cell phone's getting turned off.
through giant thunder storms and Chicago traffic. Good thing the wind
shield wiper blades broke after we escaped the big bad clouds. Barely.
Still, I enjoyed seeing this type of weather in the middle of the
summer. It has been six years after all.
Today has been spent getting ready for my big adventure. Packing for a
month long trip abroad is tricky. You want to be prepared for all
sorts of weather but you also want to bring as little as possible
since it will be travelling on your back the entire time. We'll see
how I do.
I'll try to post from Dublin if I get the chance. Otherwise, see you
in Moscow. Ok kids, cell phone's getting turned off.
Thursday, July 5, 2007
"I Think You Should Be Queen"
Apparently, my grandmother would prefer to see my face on the back of Canadian coins. I tend to agree, but neither of us could come up with concrete steps to implementation. Long ago my mother had a good plan--marry one of the two princes. At three, Frances liked this idea. My oft quoted response was "I'll take William." At twenty-three, Frances is not so sure.
Welcome to Minnesota. A land of lakes, food, and family. A lot of family. Cousins, cousin-in-laws, baby cousins (once removed), aunts, uncles, and one matriarch to rule them all. Almost 93 and still making the best cookies I'll ever have, Grandma shines above us all like the star on top the Christmas tree. And believe me, it's one big tree.
I made it safely up to the lake on Tuesday for some spectacular fireworks, strawberry shortcake on a boat, and a comfortable bed with soft squishy pillows. My uncle cleaned my car, my aunt fed me bacon, and my happiness level went up at least three notches. Giant family bbq on the 4th, another good night's sleep in the cities, and I think I'm ready for Pauline and Alex to show up tonight for the weekend.
Something feels like home. Now where are those molasses cookies?
Welcome to Minnesota. A land of lakes, food, and family. A lot of family. Cousins, cousin-in-laws, baby cousins (once removed), aunts, uncles, and one matriarch to rule them all. Almost 93 and still making the best cookies I'll ever have, Grandma shines above us all like the star on top the Christmas tree. And believe me, it's one big tree.
I made it safely up to the lake on Tuesday for some spectacular fireworks, strawberry shortcake on a boat, and a comfortable bed with soft squishy pillows. My uncle cleaned my car, my aunt fed me bacon, and my happiness level went up at least three notches. Giant family bbq on the 4th, another good night's sleep in the cities, and I think I'm ready for Pauline and Alex to show up tonight for the weekend.
Something feels like home. Now where are those molasses cookies?
Monday, July 2, 2007
Murdo She Wrote
Nothing says sleep here tonight like a town named Murdo. That and the realization when I passed a sign saying "Now Entering Central Standard Time Zone" that it was really 10pm instead of 9pm. I don't like driving past my bedtime, so here I am.
Today was a full day of first time visits. First time to the states of Nebraska and South Dakota, first visit to Mount Rushmore, and first time to eat buffalo meat. Beautiful, beautiful, bizarre, and delicious. The North-West corner of Nebraska is covered in rolling grasslands with those random giant trees popping out occasionally for no understandable reason at all. Did it used to be a forest? Unlikely. Then why is it the only large tree for miles? Blame it on the birds, perhaps.
The drive from there into South Dakota was very pleasant as I was off the main road the entire way. No other cars for miles, but a surprisingly large quantity of roadkill. Either one truck had a really bad day, or the ratio of animals springing across the road to cars was not in my favor. I did see some deer drinking from a stream on the side of the road but thankfully didn't have to dodge any animals in the road. Other than the dead ones I already mentioned.
I ended up racing a thunderstorm out of Mount Rushmore which prevented me from stopping at my second Sonic sighting, this time in Rapid City. But it all worked out because I broke for a delicious sit-down meal in Walls, SD at the Red Rock Restaurant. Beers were two dollars. Two dollars, San Francisco, did you hear that? And this wasn't happy hour. The buffalo burger was tasty, had a little barbecue flavor to it, and the homemade, apple-caramel-pecan pie added the perfect finish.
Oh, and no, I didn't have any beer. I'm driving! Thanks for that vote of confidence.
Today was a full day of first time visits. First time to the states of Nebraska and South Dakota, first visit to Mount Rushmore, and first time to eat buffalo meat. Beautiful, beautiful, bizarre, and delicious. The North-West corner of Nebraska is covered in rolling grasslands with those random giant trees popping out occasionally for no understandable reason at all. Did it used to be a forest? Unlikely. Then why is it the only large tree for miles? Blame it on the birds, perhaps.
The drive from there into South Dakota was very pleasant as I was off the main road the entire way. No other cars for miles, but a surprisingly large quantity of roadkill. Either one truck had a really bad day, or the ratio of animals springing across the road to cars was not in my favor. I did see some deer drinking from a stream on the side of the road but thankfully didn't have to dodge any animals in the road. Other than the dead ones I already mentioned.
I ended up racing a thunderstorm out of Mount Rushmore which prevented me from stopping at my second Sonic sighting, this time in Rapid City. But it all worked out because I broke for a delicious sit-down meal in Walls, SD at the Red Rock Restaurant. Beers were two dollars. Two dollars, San Francisco, did you hear that? And this wasn't happy hour. The buffalo burger was tasty, had a little barbecue flavor to it, and the homemade, apple-caramel-pecan pie added the perfect finish.
Oh, and no, I didn't have any beer. I'm driving! Thanks for that vote of confidence.
Sunday, July 1, 2007
Salt, Sonic, and Sunsets
Yes, Utah is salty. Like a big salty desert. As for the lake--the photos will do it far more justice than anything I have to say (its odor clearly inspired the Bog of Eternal Stench and the gnats cover everything like locusts, which includes you). Probably shouldn't have said anything at all.
Wyoming, on the other hand, is my new best friend. For starters, drivers should be required to wear blinders because it is next to impossible not to stare at the outcrops of rocks, expansive plains of green brush, and billboards for Sonic. Make that one billboard, and one heavenly limeade in Evanston, Wyoming.
I will end by saying the best and worst part about driving East is not driving into the sun. A rear view mirror sunset is breathtaking and all, but I ended up pulling over at least twice to reclose my jaw and wonder at the beauty of orange-tinged clouds lighting up the sky. The finally-off-the-interstate drive between Rawlins and Casper through the Great Divide Basin is truly one of the most majestic I have ever taken.
Ask me again tomorrow.
Wyoming, on the other hand, is my new best friend. For starters, drivers should be required to wear blinders because it is next to impossible not to stare at the outcrops of rocks, expansive plains of green brush, and billboards for Sonic. Make that one billboard, and one heavenly limeade in Evanston, Wyoming.
I will end by saying the best and worst part about driving East is not driving into the sun. A rear view mirror sunset is breathtaking and all, but I ended up pulling over at least twice to reclose my jaw and wonder at the beauty of orange-tinged clouds lighting up the sky. The finally-off-the-interstate drive between Rawlins and Casper through the Great Divide Basin is truly one of the most majestic I have ever taken.
Ask me again tomorrow.
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